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Clues in the clothes: using observable details to determine rough dates for photographs

3/5/2019

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PictureTintypes donated by Ed & Marsha Molloy, found when living at 121 N. Hatfield St.
Guest post by Meguey Baker
Last day as Collections Assistant, Hatfield Historical Museum.
(Meg's contract has ended and we are sorry to see her go!)


One of the challenges about working in museum collections is the process of figuring out the pieces of the puzzle that you don’t have. Artifacts come in, or are found in collections, that tell a part of the story, but not the whole story. So we have to do the research we can based on the clues we have, to expand that story as far as possible without crossing the boundary into conjecture.

Photographs pose a particular puzzle, as sometimes they come in with very little evidence at all. There is only one piece of data here, the name “John” scratched into the face of the photo of the three men, with an “L” beneath it and some additional letters to the right, possibly “Sam” or “Son” or “Som”, and a very faint smudge of what might be a date.

With our modern world being so very full of cameras, on every cell phone as well as other formats, it’s worth remembering that not very long ago, getting one’s photograph taken was rather a big deal, and happened far less frequently, in part because of the trouble and expense involved. One would think that would lead to more careful notation of who is in the photo, and why it was taken; for that, I challenge you to go look at your own childhood photos and see if there is any notation on them. If there’s not, it’s a great time to grab an archival pen and add a few notes to the back; future museum workers will thank you!

Without that first-hand data, of who is in the photo, at least roughly when it was taken, and why, we are back to research and following the leads in the picture itself. When this set of photos came into the Hatfield Historical Museum, we had very little to go on, other than the house location where they were found (121 North Hatfield Road). Here’s where the research took us.


Tintypes first patented in U.S. in 1856

The first step is to narrow down the dates for the type of photograph. These are black and white (or more correctly very dark gray and cream or tan) prints on thin blackened metal sheets. Tintypes like this were first patented in the United States in 1856, but had been patented in France for a few years prior,
so the technology was known by 1855. We can use that as our earliest possible circa date. The technique did not actually usually involve tin, but very thin sheets of blackened iron, cut with tin-snips.

A more expensive technique developed in the 1830s, daguerreotypes, required silver-washed copper and a protective glass cover; tintypes were cheaper and the image didn’t disappear at certain angles. If you look carefully at the photo of the three men, you can see an oval of wear on the sheet, where a frame or glass cover has rubbed at the bottom left and protected the tops of the center columns on the painted background from fading as much as the parts that would show through the frame. This also helps account for the uneven edges; it wasn’t meant to show to the edge, it was meant to be in a nice little frame, like the ‘books’ that daguerreotypes made so popular.

Given the dates of technology origin, and hazarding to guess they were taken in America, we can settle on 1855 or after for the whole lot. We could stop there! Tintypes peak in popularity just before the Civil War, but remain around up to the early 1900s, increasingly as a novelty, like photo-booth photos are today. However, if we want to try to dig a little deeper, we can examine the clothes for hints. Each era in history has at least a few distinct silhouettes, and certain things, like hoop skirts and zippers, have extremely clear start dates. Let's look at them in order, by the clues in the clothing.

Picture
The most obvious is the military attire on the two younger men. This type of button pattern, with the center line and the two outer lines that curve out from the waist and back in towards the neck, occurs in a very few places: private military academies in the 1860s, in which case there is generally a great deal of decorative braid, often in contrasting colors, and the New England Militia in the 1860s, which had no such braid.

The decorations on the young men’s jackets also include shoulder boxes, indicating they are Lieutenants in the U.S.  Army, and they have inverted chevrons on the sleeve cuffs we can see -- the boy on the left has two, the boy on the right has three. If these are measures of rank, the boy on the left is a corporal and the boy on the right a sergeant. All this is slightly confusing -- how wonderful it would be if someone had taped a little note to the back of this metal plate, with the date, names and ranks of these boys on it!


Why have I switched to calling them boys, instead of young men? Look at their faces and the positioning of their bodies. These are young, very young, men. The cigar that seems reasonable in the mouth of the mustachioed man behind them looks unfamiliar in the mouth of the boy on the right, and ridiculous in the mouth of the boy on the left. The positioning of the older man’s hands on the boys shoulders is also intentional, not just to hold them steady, but to indicate relationship. Using the clues in the technology and the clothing, we can deduce a possible reason for this photo shoot: these young men are off to the Civil War, which started in 1861, and swept up so many young men and boys.

Picture
Next, let’s look at the women in the dark two-piece dresses, with tight-fitting bodices, buttons up the front and their hats on the backs of their heads. So many clues! The sleeves are very snug, but with a natural shoulder, which marks it as post-1870, as the pre-Civil War shoulder was very low off the shoulder, with a wider sleeve.

The large full skirts of the 1850s and 1860s are gone, and the buttons and trim on both women’s bodices are heavily influenced by military uniform styles. Given the very upright postures of both woman, there is boning in the bodices, and very likely short corsets.

It’s unclear if there is a bustle on either dress, but from the way the skirt on the seated woman is pulling, we can estimate the fullness of the fabric, and deduce that it’s an A-line style skirt with a ruffle at the hem, with an overskirt that adds a draped front. The rustic bench and backdrop of trees implies an outdoor theme, and so they are wearing their hats. The hats are dark straw, and have dark feathers and ribbons, secured with hat pins instead of ribbon ties. Hatpins were first made commercially in the 1850s, and widely adopted following the Civil War, remaining a constant in women’s accessories until the first World War, when the demand for metal affected every aspect of life. All of this points to a circa 1870 date for the ladies in dark hats.


Picture
The second picture of ladies in dark dresses, with a little table, shows women wearing the Basque waist, which extends below the waist down to the hips, and lends a slight forward slope to the torso. A precursor of the Edwardian S-shape torso, this silhouette has a more relaxed sleeve, a natural waist, longer boning and slightly longer skirts.

As this is an indoor setting, and these are young ladies, they have minimal hairdressing -- braids and ribbons, and white collars to set off the dark fabric.  All of this points to a circa date of 1880.

The last photo (below) is significantly later, with women in separates with hats square on their heads.



Picture
There is extra fullness in the upper arm, but as it tapers to the cuff instead of going sharply from full in the upper arm and tight in the lower arm, we can date these fairly closely.

The woman on the left wears a dark skirt and light blouse, with a soft pale cravat, which points to the menswear influence of 1900. But the layers of lace on the lighter two-piece dress on the woman on the right is closer to the 1905-1910 bodice.

The light straw hats with very upright plumes in wide ribbon hat bands are very 1900s "girl-on-the-go," but hats vary dramatically as a personal expression throughout the 1890s to 1910. So, we could say that this is a picture of two friends, one of them wearing an old favorite outfit and one wearing a newer fashion, but certainly within scope of a 1905 circa date.


By carefully examining the details in the clothing, we can bring these four photos from “after 1850” to a more precise chronological timeline, and make some inferences about the people shown. Still, it would sure be helpful if there was a good clear pencil notation on the back, or notes that had come down with these over the last 150+ years.

Author
Meguey Baker studied early American textile history and material culture at Hampshire College. She is a member of the Mohawk Trail Quilt Guild, on the board of the Historical Society of Greenfield, and does textile repair and conservation for private clients.

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Public grief and the blue star flag

9/19/2018

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PictureBardwell WWI service flag
Guest post by Meguey Baker
Collections Assistant, Hatfield Historical Museum


The idea of social grief, that we are or could be united by loss, was an important part of the makeup of the 20th century. Yesterday in the Hatfield Historical Museum we inventoried the flags and banners from our textile collection. There are many, but the one that stopped me was this one: the World War I Service flag for Homer Bardwell and Curtis Bardwell (below).

These flags were used to signify the homes of people in the military. A blue star was for a person serving, a gold star was for a person who had died in service, a gold cross for a person injured in service. Some homes had one star, others had several. All of them helped those passing by to understand that this family was thinking of someone far away, possibly in harm’s way. This helped form a community and support for families if anything in the news was cause for alarm. If a family had a blue star and then it was replaced with a gold star, everyone knew what had happened. Everyone could be extra considerate and compassionate with the grieving family.

Picture19th century mourning wear
Also recently in the museum, we inventoried all of the hats, including an entire box of black mourning wear. Black hats, black bonnets with long black veils, black ribbon collars, dull black bands and black net shawls. There was a whole system of mourning wear, from deepest black through dark purple to lavender to gray and white. Colors would return as you felt able or after commonly accepted lengths of time.  Whole industries grew up around this, with whole methods of fabric production. Mourning wear served the same purpose for grieving individuals that blue star and gold star flags served for families. Beyond the message to people passing by the house, this mourning wear alerted everyone you interacted with throughout your day that you were in grief, and to perhaps be understanding if you took a little more time to do a simple task, or suddenly teared up for no clear reason.

PictureRuth Withun Lord, died 2007
I miss this. A dozen years ago, my family went through a long hard period of loss. In 18 months, I lost three grandparents (including my grandmother at left), my father-in-law, and two brothers-in-law. I remember standing at the counter at the gas station, trying to complete the exchange, and wishing so very much that I could be wearing a black mourning band or veil so that people would know, without me having to tell them, that I was bearing up under the pain of loss, and they might be more patient with me. I wanted to see other people around town wearing black or sober clothes, to have some sense of not being alone in the depths of my grief. Even if I did not know them, to have seen other people walking around with clear signifiers of loss and grief would have been a tremendous comfort.

We want comforting when we are grieving, and we want to know we are not alone when we are feeling so bereft. During many of our nation’s wars, the names of the injured and dead were published in the local papers, and buildings and people were visibly marked by loss. We have in our collective memory black-draped hearses and Jackie Kennedy in a black hat and sheer black veil, flag-draped coffins and candle-light vigils. Maybe sometime we will again have a way for people to convey their personal grief with the same simple wordless dignity that a WWI Service flag or a black armband gave to those in decades past. For now, let us remember that no matter what people are wearing, some of those we see each day are suffering great loss and none of us are or need to be alone in our sorrow.

Author

Meguey Baker studied early American textile history and material culture at Hampshire College. She is a member of the Mohawk Trail Quilt Guild, on the board of the Historical Society of Greenfield, and does textile repair and conservation for private clients.

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Not just one way to save and share history...

3/27/2014

 

Like most things in life, it's how a thing is done that determines its value

PictureSgt. Edwin Graves, 37th Mass. Reg., Co. F
Two years ago, not long after my “In Praise of Provenance” post where I talked about the issues raised in Craig Childs’ book Finders Keepers: A Tale of Archaeological Plunder and Obsession, I got an email from a Virginia man who organizes Civil War relic hunting trips. He’d purchased a gold badge that had belonged to Hatfield Civil War soldier Sgt. Edwin Graves, of the 37th Massachusetts Regiment, Co. F, and he wondered if the Hatfield Historical Society might have any additional information on Graves.

Since I’d recently helped to organize local archaeologist Randy Daum’s presentation on his “Old Farms” archaeology dig – our town’s own notable piece of buried history (a Colonial village from the late 17th century) – I might have been quick to pass judgment on a relic hunter as someone stealing history from the rest of us for their own gain. But I had just read Finders Keepers, and that brought my understanding to a much higher level, where the “good” and the “bad” were not so easily distinguished.

This relic hunter’s name is John Kendrick, and he and I went back and forth several times via email. I have to admit I learned more about Sgt. Graves than he did. Today, in the week before the opening of our revamped Civil War exhibit, including Edwin Graves, it seems appropriate to share his reply (with his permission).


PictureCamp of the 37th Mass. Vol's. near Brandy Station, Va.
Oct. 18, 2011

Hi Kathy, I'll tell you a little about how I acquired Edwin's ID badge. I have been in the hobby of Civil War relic hunting for over 40 years. I now run a small business here in Virginia that holds annual events where relic hunters from all over the country come to relic hunt private property where Civil War activity took place.

There are those that think relic hunting is stealing history and they call us looters and pot hunters. I feel very differently about that. If we didn't recover these artifacts they would never be seen or held again. These areas are remote and the archaeologists will never have the
 funding, time or even a reason to excavate these little camps. The land will soon be put into conservation easements never to be developed. We are lovers of history and many of us have a ball sharing our passion with schoolchildren and interested groups.

I have a presentation coming up at Culpeper Christian School and want to concentrate on the 37th Mass. Regiment -- hence my interest in Sgt. Edwin Graves. The look on children's faces when they actually get to hold an artifact from the Civil War is priceless!

During our Spring event we located the 1863/64 winter encampment of the 37th Mass. Infantry Regiment. There is a period lithograph [at right] depicting the camp and you can stand on the spot where the artist made his drawing and it looks very much the same as it did 147 years ago. Gives me cold chills.


PictureImages by Divido; Courtesy of John Kendrick
There were many artifacts recovered at that event and one of them was Edwin Graves gold ID shield. It is absolutely beautiful. Solid gold with a white gold or platinum square in the Masonic emblem on the front. The back is a little hard to read, but says "E Graves, Co F, 37th Regt. Volunteers.” It's about the size of a dime.The pin obviously broke and he lost the shield while there. The 37th left that camp on May 3rd, 1864 and marched south on the Plank Road. Edwin was wounded on May 6th and died in Fredericksburg on May 21st.

The ID shield was recovered by a young man on the second day of our 3 day event and it was the best find of the event by far. He has since found it necessary to part with it. He wanted more for it than I could afford to pay but I simply couldn't bear the thought of someone buying it to make a profit and it falling into someone's hands who didn't appreciate the pin for what it was and the history behind it. The young man had tears in his eyes and his hands trembled when he handed it to me. It's now in my collection and will remain there as long as I am around.


PictureImages by Divido; Courtesy of John Kendrick
I have found quite a few references to Edwin. The best one is from Recollections of the Civil War by [Mason Whiting] Tyler, printed by Putnam and Sons in 1912. You can read it online and on page 146,  Capt. Tyler writes almost a whole page on Graves. Another is The Civil War Letters of Joseph K. Taylor of the Thirty Seventh Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry by Kevin C. Murphy. Taylor was Graves hut-mate the winter of 1863/64 and mentions him numerous times in his letters home.

I am interested in any information on Graves. I will most likely travel to Hatfield this coming Spring and would love to show you the shield. I want to visit his grave and maybe see his home if still standing. 

By recovering and documenting artifacts for present and future generations to see and hold, not simply to be measured, recorded and put into some warehouse somewhere never to be seen again, we are doing some good.

Our business maintains a forum called mytreasurespot.com. My wife and I run the forum and business. We work very hard to run a decent organization and have donated close to
$100,000 in seven years to Civil War and community-based charities. We took donations for our local food closet at a recent event and collected 7,500 items for the closet. The money we give landowners for the event helps improve the farm operations in our area and pay taxes for some struggling farmers.

I have retraced [Edwin’s] steps south from the camp to the place of his wounding. Much of the landscape is unchanged today and sometimes I can almost feel his presence...the more I learn about him, the more he becomes alive for me. History is wonderful and I have a wonderful hobby! Thank you for your interest Kathy.

--John



Childs’ Finders Keepers is about exactly this conundrum: leave it in the ground where it
will likely rot and never be seen by anyone? Or be covered by a mall parking lot or development? Or, dig it up, either by archaeologists or relic hunters and a) pack it away in a drawer in a university archive? b) sell it to the highest bidder, who may be a private collector and keep the artifact to themselves or c) share it (in some fashion) with others interested in history? The author does not come down cleanly on any side, except on the value of provenance.

To my mind, what John Kendrick and others like him are doing here – searching out and sharing background and detail, the provenance, effectively, that had been lost – is what makes history come alive -- and not just for kids.

P.S. Speaking of provenance, here’s a post from a blog called “Touch the Past,” where a relic hunter recommends taking a GPS reading of your find so you don’t lose the historical value of its placement in the ground. Now that seems like something folks could agree on.

"Winter soldier" mysteries

4/25/2011

 
  I stopped in Saturday at the museum to drop off a few things. Jan Phaneuf was hosting. Two family groups came up to visit while I was there, but she’d had a long visit from a man whose relative had been billeted (provided nonmilitary housing) in Hatfield during the early 1700s, and he was wondering where. His descendant had been described as a “winter soldier,” and we wondered what that meant. Did it have anything to do with being a farmer, perhaps, and volunteering to soldier when not in the growing season – some type of Armed Forces Reserve?

After a brief online search, it seemed more likely to reference a term that grew out of a Thomas Paine essay titled The Crisis first published as a pamphlet in December 1776. This is the essay that begins with the well-known line, “These are the times that try men’s souls.” In the second winter of the war, the essay chastises soldiers and others who are faint of heart in pursuing their cause, and states:

PictureImage from Lambertville Library
“The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country, but he that stands it now deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us that, the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph.”

A “winter soldier,” in contrast, is one who will continue to fight for his or her cause when the going gets tough. Paine continues, “lay your shoulders to the wheel; better have too much force than too little, when so great an object is at stake. Let it be told to the future world, that in the depth of winter, when nothing but hope and virtue could survive, that the city and the country, alarmed at one common danger, came forth to meet and to repulse it.”

If this visitor’s descendant was a “winter soldier” of this type lodging in Hatfield, I, also, am curious to know where. You just never know down what road a trip to the museum will lead you.

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    Curator's musings...

    As the curator of a small town Historical Society museum, I wonder a great many things. Am I alone in these thoughts that come to me while driving, or exercising, or falling asleep at night? Is it unusual to be constructing displays and writing copy in one's head for an enlarged museum space that does not, as yet, exist?

    If you're wondering about the blog title, "bird by bird," see my First Post for an explanation! Click HERE to read it.

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    former curator, 2010-2021


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